This recipe was borne out of necessity. I had accidentally invited nine people for dinner on a Thursday night and wouldn’t be back from work until 7pm. I had braised the kid shoulder the night before ready to go but still didn’t know what was going to go with it! Kid is a mild meat that is complemented by light spicing and fresh flavours. Given that I had stock left over from cooking the goat and a huge bag of rice in the cupboard, I decided on a pilaf.
The rice is cooked in the stock with spices, fruits, nuts and seeds and then left to absorb all the flavours. Doable in the time I had. I used cinnamon and cumin, added some sour cherries and toasted pumpkin seeds for texture, and then freshened the dish up with lemon juice, pomegranate seeds and fresh coriander.
My kid goat is from Gourmet Goat, supplied by Ellie’s Dairy, who carefully look after a small herd of goats in the Kent downs. The meat is deliciously tender after a few hours braising in a low oven, and the resulting stock is used to flavour the pilaf.
You can find Gourmet Goat and Ellie’s Dairy trading at Borough Market. Come along, say hello and enjoy the fine produce.
I’ve been using kid goat stock in loads of recipes to finish sauces or to add flavour to stews and soups. Basically, I’ve been using it like a stock cube and its worked really well. So when I went to college and suddenly had access to a £6000 freeze-dryer I set myself the challenge to make a kid goat stock cube.
The first step was to freeze the ingredients. I had my stock already made and frozen but to get the commercial cube look I finely diced some carrot and celery and froze that down as well. Once it was frozen I placed it on a tray and put it in the freeze-dryer for 72 hours.
Freeze-drying is also know as cryodesiccation, which probably sounds less appetising but I prefer it, and involves changing the water in the food from a solid to a gas without it passing through the liquid phase, this is called sublimation. This is achieved by reducing the pressure around it as it thaws, forcing the frozen water into a gas so the food remains dry and all the water is extracted. The result is a very light and powdery but solid and usually with a more intense flavour than the original, as it has lost 99% of the water it previously contained.
I was really excited to see what came out of the machine. The carrot and celery had changed flavour completely and had a strange chewy texture but they were recognisable once they reconstituted in the mouth. The stock had the look of frozen crystals but was powdery to the touch. I bound the components of the cube together with some vegetable fat and set it in the fridge. I didn’t have a cube mould unfortunately so its more of a stock cylinder but it stuck together well.
The next test was to see how it would reconstitute back into a liquid stock. It was made with meaty bones slowly simmered to release gelatin, which is what thickens the stock to a sticky reduction. I wanted to see if this was still possible after water was added as this would give it the edge over supermarket stock cubes, which when reconstituted and reduced, get overly salty and don’t thicken.
I treated the cube like a supermarket one and poured boiling water over and whisked. As you can see in the video it reconstituted straight back to its original brown colour. I then put it in a pan over a high heat and reduced it and was delighted it produce a perfect sticky sauce.
Dukkah is an Egyptian spice mix that varies in its make up but usually includes cumin, coriander, sesame seeds and black pepper. This recipe is adapted for use with kid goat chops which are delicate in flavour and therefore shouldn’t be overpowered by strong spices.
The fresh vegetables and citrus in the light cous-cous salad complement the kid and make this a healthy dish, especially considering that kid goat is very lean and low in cholesterol.
This recipe uses my Kid Goat Stock but you can use chicken or vegetable stock as an alternative.
I found a recipe for microwave jerky while reading Modernist Cuisine, the six volume bible for anyone interested in science-informed cookery. Their recipe is for beef jerky marinated in soy sauce, fish sauce, sugar and salt and then dried in a microwave in just five minutes. I’m always looking for interesting things to try with kid goat and so I thought I’d try and make kid jerky based on this recipe.
Traditionally jerky would have been dried in the open air, over smoke and fire for days. Or more recently in a dehydrator for several hours. But why not use the microwave if it could be done in minutes? The modernist philosophy is to break down misconceptions and myths so use of the microwave is not looked down on, or frowned upon. The idea is that radio waves at a certain frequency agitate the water molecules in the cured meat and force the water out very quickly, drying the jerky.
Of course drying meat over a fire would have produced a smoky flavour so a lot of recent jerky recipes call for the addition of liquid smoke flavouring to the marinade to emulate this. I wanted to achieve this smokiness balanced with sweet and peppery flavours so the perfect solution was Gran Luchito smoked chili paste, currently gaining popularity and winning accolades and awards all over the place. It is made from rare Pasilla Oaxaca chilies, harvested and smoked over oak by the farmers who grow them in Oaxaca, Mexico. The chilies are then mixed with caramelised onions, balsamic vinegar and dark agave syrup to produce a deeply smoky, sweet and peppery paste.
For my jerky, I have used kid goat neck fillet. It is important to use a lean meat for jerky, which makes kid goat perfect as it is one of the leanest meats available. The neck is tender and yields perfect long strips. The loin would have also worked well. Below is my recipe which I think worked really well. The chili paste did most of the work with the flavour but I added soy sauce for seasoning and dark colour, and maple syrup and black pepper to enhance the sweet and peppery flavours of the paste.
If you want to try this recipe, you can find Gran Luchito paste on Amazon or buy it from retailers listed on their website and find kid goat meat from Gourmet Goat at Borough Market, Wednesday – Saturday, and loads of info and recipes at gourmetgoat.co.uk.
This is a simple but delicious recipe using ingredients that complement the delicate kid chops. The meat is marinated overnight in light mediterranean flavours of olive oil, garlic, thyme and lemon, then cooked quickly at a high temperature. Kid chops are naturally tender so they’re excellent cooked medium – well done.
This is a lovely recipe that utilises the beautifully tender kid-goat rack and smoky Gran Luchito honey. The herb crust gives a nice crispy texture, and I used a water-bath to cook the rack sous-vide, but you could cook it in the oven as an alternative.
If using the oven, seal the rack in a hot pan on all sides then leave to cool. Brush on the honey and roll in the breadcrumbs and finish in the oven for 10-15 minutes until the desired doneness is achieved. I suggest a core temperature of 55℃ for a nice pink centre. I strongly recommend investing in a digital probe thermometer to measure core temperatures, it takes the guess work out of your cooking and will give you confidence of perfect results. You can find one online for around £15 and it will become an invaluable tool in the kitchen.
A jus is a stock that is reduced until a gelatinous thickness is achieved. The process of reducing the stock simply removes water which intensifies the flavours and thickens the liquid. I am using my kid-goat stock enriched with some red wine and aromatics.
Jus is precious and you will not get a huge yield. It should be used sparingly. It can be used as a thick sauce by itself or it can be poured into ice cube trays and frozen and then used straight from the freezer to thicken and enrich other sauces and gravies.
Working at Gourmet Goat and cooking nine goats every week means that we have a lot of leftover bones. I wanted to use them so I decided to try a kid-goat stock based on the classic french veal stock. This is the base for several of the classic french soups, sauces and jus and I thought the kid goat flavour would work really well as an alternative and for use in kid recipes.
The result was a clear stock with unmistakable kid flavour. This stock can be poured into ice cube trays and used like a stock cube. Just drop a cube into a dish to add that savoury umami goodness.